The Secret Ingredient

How many of you have seen Kung-fu Panda? Remember Po's father's secret ingredient soup? For those who haven't let me bring you up to speed. Po is a clumsy panda working in his father's noodle shop. One of the items there, which is the hot favorite, is said to have a secret ingredient which has been handed over from one generation of Po's family to another. His father tells him that once he takes over the business, he will be told all about the secret ingredient. The story then moves on and becomes a classic bollywood-esque coming of age tale. We again get back to the topic of the secret ingredient towards the climax when his father whispers to him that there is no secret ingredient in the soup, none at all. It is this supposed story of a secret ingredient that created the myth of it being something more delicious than the other just-delicious items of the shop. It is the reputation of the secret ingredient.

Delhi is an old city. It is a complete foodie's city, with delicious and fabled items that have been made there for generations by either the same people or by their son's, nephews etc. Every nook and cranny of Delhi has some restaurant or shop or food cart that has been making something for years and has gained legendary status. They've built a solid reputation amongst the citizens of this city who, according to me, are amongst the most discerning foodies in India.

Sadly, it is this reputation that has been the downfall of those once fabled places. Forgive me for trashing some of your favorite places but this is something which has to be done. These fabled places have lost what they were once famous for and are now riding the gravy train. Though mind you, not all of the old and reputed places are bad, some are still good. This blog is against those who are just relying on their reputation now and taking other things for granted.

Let me start out with Moti Mahal, the legendary chain which started the butter chicken revolution. Sadly, now, it can only talk the talk but cannot walk the walk. Just about average food, with appalling service and exorbitant prices. Oh, and did I mention that in their GK-1 joint, you get a free side of cockroaches? Their butter chicken is so-so, but I can tell you of many other places which serve tremendously better butter chicken. Al-bake in New Friends Colony according to me has the best butter chicken in Delhi. Gola Sizzlers in Defence Colony has awesome butter chicken and so does Mughals in New Friends Colony for take-away. In the same vein, the food at stalwarts Embassy and Gaylord is overpriced and mediocre at best. Aap ki Khatir which, once, was such a crowd puller that they used to run out of food by 9.30 pm, now is over-priced and a joke.

Khan Chacha in Khan Market has ruled the roll segment for decades. They have now shifted to a swankier residence in Khan Market. I remember going there for the first time in 2004. The rolls there were below average. I came back puzzled and doubting my taste buds for not liking something which the whole of Delhi raves about. At a recent outing in their swanky new outlet, 3 rolls (2 mutton and 1 paneer) cost an exorbitant 400 bucks. These rolls were ordinary, not of legendary status. If you want to eat legendary rolls try Salims which has now shifted to Defence Colony. Try Qureshis opposite Don Bosco School. Aunty Rolls in Alaknanda Market, just behind the telephone box makes excellent rolls.

Parathas near the Moolchand flyover are abysmal. Slightly overpriced for the whole experience, I would much rather have home cooked parathas. Try the parathas at the dumpster near Nizamuddin Railway Station. They are good and really really cheap. Chaat at South Extension market and at Prince Pan is a rip off and again mediocre at best. Nathu's, while hiking it's prices, has downgraded the quality and quantity of the food it serves. One place that gave me a lot of joy when I was a kid, Nirula's now just disappoints me. Once a pioneer of the ripped-off 'Big Boy Burger' and pizzas, it is a mere shadow of it's once behemoth self. Saravana Bhavan is one such gut-wrenching disappointment.

It is important for these places to realize that reputation, while important, is not the be-all and end-all of the restaurant business. They need to make good food to keep the reputation that their founders worked very hard for. Its easier to lose a reputation than to earn it and once its lost, it can be very-very hard to regain.

Though, all is not lost, some places like Kareem, Natraj, Changezi Chicken Corner, Wenger's and Maxim's still live up to their reputation of serving truly incredible food for generations. It is only a matter of what one's priorities are and these places have stuck to providing good food, which is the engine room of any good restaurant.

PS: I have not been paid for praising restaurants and institutions here. This is just a reflection  of my thoughts and views. I might be wrong, I might be right. I would love to hear your opinions nevertheless.